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Price x 1: R550.00
Price x 2: R900.00
Please contact me on email: firstname.lastname@example.org or Cell: 0825621140
Well constructed paths and patios will enhance any domestic property or garden. They are practically free of maintenance, and make a satisfying home improvement
project. This leaflet covers all types of paving laid with open joints on either a mortar or a sand bed. It will give the homeowner or DIY enthusiast guidance on selecting materials, preparing the site and recommends methods of laying the paving.
The publication excludes interlocking paving blocks which are laid very close together without open joints on a sand bed. The Concrete Manufacturers Association (CMA) publications cover this type of paving.
The paving materials you choose will depend on cost, personal preference and whether a formal or informal effect will suit your home. Generally, the thicker the units, the stronger the paving will be and the greater the loads the paving will carry without distorting. The finished paving must have a minimum slope of 1 in 50 for proper drainage. Paving must slope away from buildings. Avoid low areas where water can collect.
3. Preparing the site
The ground below the paving must be firm and stable so that it does not settle unevenly with time. It must have the same slope as the finished paving.
Remove all roots and vegetable matter from the site, and preferably, the topsoil. Then trim the bed to the correct level and slope. Soft areas and areas that have been filled must be well stamped down with, for example, a gumpole. If the fill is very dry, mix in just enough water to dampen it and then compact it.
Paving paths & patios
Finally, recheck surface levels and slopes and correct them if necessary.
4. Materials for the mortar bed
For the mortar bed always use cement which has an SABS mark and complies with SANS 50197-1 (common cements). Use a 1:6 cement sand mix. Note: SANS 50197- specifies a number of properties and performance criteria. Composition and strength are required to be displayed by the manufacturer on the packaging of each cement produced.
A simple way of deciding whether a sand is suitable for mortar is to mix 5 kg of cement with 25 kg of air dry sand and then add enough water to produce a consistency suitable for mortar. If more than 6 litres of water is needed, the sand is unsuitable.
5. Recommended methods of laying
Units less than 40 mm thick should always be laid on a bed of mortar to give a total thickness of not less than 40 mm. Thicker units may be laid on a sand bed.
Paving Mould Instructions
1. Warranty non-void if the mould breaks when dropped or incorrectly used.
2. This product is not to be used for imprint paving (mould will break if pressure is applied to it).
3. Do not stand or hammer hard onto the mould (mould will break).
4. Do not push the mould back on wet cement cobble stones. If the cement forming the cobble
stones is too wet or sloppy; then make the mixture stiffer and start again.
Each mould has been individually inspected before final packaging.
· Prepare the area that requires paving by levelling and compacting the ground.
· If there is a weed problem over the area to be paved, then a black cloth material (available at the garden nursery) may be used over the ground surface for the prevention of weeds in future.
· Chicken mesh may also be used on top of the cloth material prior to paving. When the cobble stones are dry and require grouting in-between the gaps; paving on chicken mesh, the cobble stones will not move, thus making it easier to grout.
· Oxide powder (choose a cement colouring) may be added to the cement mixture. The more colouring you add to the mixture, the darker the look of the cobble stone.
· When preparing the plastering mix (readymade cement/sand mix) add an extra one or two scoops of cement for extra strength. Try and use fine sand for a finer surface texture. Increasing your cement ratio to the sand, also contributes to a finer surface finish. Cement/sand mixture should be a ratio of 1:3 or even better 1:2. The cement mixture should not be runny, but stiff (it should not easily slide from the spade). Note: a wet or runny mixture will not work correctly.
· Place cement mixture in the mould cavities. Ensure that all of the gaps are properly filled,
compressed and levelled evenly across the mould. After 5 minutes remove the mould carefully by tapping gently with a hammer or mallet on the top side areas and simultaneously slightly lifting the mould.
· Once the mould appears to be loose, use both hands to lift it up completely. Leave the paving to set for half an hour.
· Note: Edges of the cobble stones will slightly lift (Do not touch wet cement).
· After an half an hour, use a damp sponge (not dripping wet) and wipe the new cobble stones to smooth the top and edges. Wash sponge every so often before carrying on smoothing again.
· If the area that requires paving is medium to large; it is advisable for a minimum of two to four moulds to be used. While the first mould is setting for 3-5 minutes, you can carry on with the second one without wasting time.
· When using X2 or more moulds simultaneously for larger areas, it is advisable to first start with only one mould to manufacture minimum X2 complete tiles. Once that is done, multiple moulds can be utilized at the same time, thus minimizing the gap space. Utilizing 2 moulds next to each other will increase the gap between cobble stones in relation to the centre cobble stones.
· Rotate the paving mould for a random pattern finish. Notice the orientation of the big cobble stone.
· If required - to shape/trim the edging of the fresh paving on the sides, use a spade to cut through the wet cement.
· Once dry it should be stone sealed.
· Once the paving is dry (6 Days), it should be stone sealed with a mat stone sealer, before grouting the crevices. The grouting should be of a different colour shade for a good contrast.
· E.g. Wonder Lawn (Dichondra Repens) seeds or fine moss grass with soil can also be
substituted instead of grout in-between the crevices, for a lovely tea garden.
· Square or rectangular cobble stones may be used as a border to the paving (available
at your nearest garden nursery store). The square cobble stones are used to round off the paving edging. Note: Foundation is required for the square/rectangular cobble stones (edging) so that they do not move.
· When making a winding path, press the mould gently into the previous fresh made cobble stones to make an indentation in the cement. Remove the mould and use a flat spatula to cut away the unwanted cement. Then place the mould in position and proceed with the paving of the next mould tile.
· When approaching e.g. a wall and can no longer fit another mould; measure the distance required. Use the mould to produce the required cobble stones for the space required in an open area. Use the spade or spatula to trim the required cobble stones for the space that requires filling. Once the trimmed cobble stones are dry to pick up, move them to the remaining space.
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